![]() Those two wires trace around the edge of the first diagram to the upper left where 655, red, goes directly to the solenoid and also the upper end of wire 38A which is connected to the same solenoid terminal thorugh another ring connector. The 2nd drawing is of the actual dash wiring where you can trace those 2 wires, 654 & 655, to the ammeter gauge. In the first drawing the connector marked 'G' in the lower right carries the two wires to the dash ammeter. Although the wiring for a '68 may be a little different Ford was still using a shunt ammeter see attached wiring diagram for a '68. You have made quite a few changes but your yellow splice point may well be part of your problem. But as far as moving on the 'charge' side, about all you'll see is a couple degrees of movement while it tops off your badly drained battery.ĭuring normal use, it's just about the most boring gauge you'd ever care to cast your eyes upon. That should give you a pretty good test, and indicate that it can show 'discharge' at least. The heater blower motor and windshield wipers too, for example. If you are running the radio and headlights without spinning the engine, you should see it move a *little*, and you should be able to watch it move more as you add each bit of electrical load. I get that you figured your starter + Headlights would make a big difference, but with the alternator already spinning, it counteracts the issue pretty fast, and doesn't really show a massive amount of movement. If you have a dead short somewhere, or a bad battery - or if your alternator fails - it will show a (more) significant amount of movement, letting you know there's a problem! What it will do, is show you when there's a major charging problem. When you turn on the lights, as you mentioned, you will usually get a little dip, but then the alternator senses the additional load and feeds in more power, so it stays nice and centered. In my experience, the ammeter really DOESN'T move around much. ![]() My question: did I stuff it up in the first re-wiring in that the yellow splice should have been closer to the alternator? If that is not the problem what else should I look for to get the guage to properly indicate? My wiring has the red to the solenoid post and the yellow spliced into the wire from the alternator about the middle of the dash. The standard wiring diagram shows the two ammeter wires with the red connected at the starter solenoid, and the yellow spliced into the loom close by. This is after the car sitting for a few weeks and me testing the new circuits, I would have expected the guage to show a big charge to replenish the battery. but with the engine running returned to slightly into the negative, again about half a needle width. I tried swapping the wires and this had an effect, the guage swung about halfway into the charge side with the lights on and starter engaged. The needle does move slightly (about a half needle width) when I turn on the headlights or the starter motor, but not as much as I would have expected given the range on the guage. Just in case the ammeter was faulty, I bought a new one but that made no difference. The steering column, interior lights and alternator were different but I sorted it out, except for the ammeter, it still does the same thing. The loom I got turned out to be for GM cars so there was no explanation to suit my car, I had it for some months before I discovered this, so it was too late to return it. I have labelled wires with a labelling machine, and marked any changes on the provided wiring diagram. It took a bit of time but now it looks a whole lot neater and more logical. I only replaced the loom under the dash, the rear and front loom up to the firewall are as they were. So I decided to rip it all out and fit an aftermarket 22 fuse universal loom. At least it wasn't like the RHD converted Buick I once owned, I pulled out the dash to find every wire was orange!:surprise: I did label the wiring back then but twenty years later realized that ballpoint on masking tape was a bad mistake. I took a look under the dash which had a combination of original dash wiring and whatever colours I added later plus an auxiliary fuse box, and decided it was too hard. As a consequence the loom was fairly hacked around, but everything worked - except for that ammeter.Ībout a year ago, I started to get some glitches with the indicators and hazard lights. ![]() I also wired in an immobilizer, electric aerial, central locking, plus later added a remote CD changer, the usual stuff you do. From the time I got the car the ammeter never really worked, even when it was LHD.ĭuring the conversion to RHD I had to do a bit of re-wiring to flip the dash, and to clean up the engine bay moved the regulator and solenoid to under the dash on the left side above the kick panel, and the battery to the boot. I have a 68 coupe that I converted to RHD many years ago for use in Australia.
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